Dickens Christmas 2020
The Left Side
This view displays the village from Lighthouse Point, the Highlands, Tide Water Street and the wharf district, and St. Martins Square.
The Right Side
This view displays the shop district at the bottom of High Street, passes by the monastery on the right edge and climbs the High Street roadway, past the Melancholy Tavern and up the St. Martin's Square. To tour the entire village just scroll down and join the tour that starts below.
The Lighthouse at Brighton
As our packet HMS Britannia sails up the Strand heading for its berth at the Brighton wharf we first sail past the old lighthouse. Built over a hundred years ago the beacon continues to guide ships to save harbor. Just to the left of the lighthouse stands the monument to all the Brighton sailors who have perished at sea. Folks often come to Lighthouse Point to watch the sunrise, and there is a couple doing just that as we sail by.
The Grapes Inn
The Britannia has tied up near the Grapes Inn. It is a favorite place to spend the night for the crews of ships berthing at Brighton. As the sign proclaims the best Fish and Chips in town are served at the inn and I can see some of the staff carrying in barrels of the bitter ale that the inn is famous for. I see some lobster traps on the wharf, I wonder if lobster is also served at the inn.
HMS Britannia
With the Britannia safely secured to her berth Captain Forrester can be seen instructing the first officer to care for the ship while the captain is away. On the left are a pair of local fishermen cleaning their catch while they keep the rest of their catch on ice in a large tub. I hope they remember to chase off the gulls who are looking for a easy meal.
Tide Water Street
Several of the building along Tide Water Street belong to one of Brighton's stingy businessmen, Ebenezzer Scrooge. On the left he has the building where he rents the Cratchets' living quarters, the there is his counting house where the cranky old man can be seen in the bay window working on his accounts even at this hour. I wonder of the old grouch has nightmares at night?
"The Game is Afoot"
Standing next to the Scrooge compound is home and office of the famous detective Sherlock Holmes. He must have a new case as I see him discussing the matter with his assistant Dr Watson who is taking notes in his notebook. Next door is the King's Custom House where Joseph Ward, the agent, is discussing the duty tax on a just arrived shipment of French wines. The village wine merchant, E. Tipler has sent his son, Eathan, to settle accounts and arrange for the wines to be delivered to their shop on High Street.
Fagin's Barrels and Storage
Samuel Fagin has a contract with the Custom House to take possession of any goods that arrive in the port until their owners pay the taxes and claim their merchandise. He has a bad reputation for over charging so it is best to keep a careful eye on this disreputable character.
Tide Water Street
Cliffside Stairs and the Cove
From this view we can see the daunting, and frequently icy Cliffside Stairs that lead to the Royal Observatory. Between the Cliffside Stairs and Lighthouse Point is the narrow body of water known as The Cove. If you look you can see the drain that removes the water runoff from the high city that we will visit later. Looks like a visiting family is heading up the stairs toward the Observatory right now.
Traveling to the Blue Marlin
This time of year the waters of the Cove can be rough and quite icy. However residents of Brighton know the best meal in town can be had at the Blue Marlin. The eatery is located in a natural cave at the end of the cove. The only access is by boat. Jerry, the owner's son, rows customers to and from the eatery and also carries in supplies. The boat ride can be quite an adventure, but I promise, the meal is well worth it.
Sheffield Manor and Tower
At the top of the Cliffside Stairs is on oak gate that guards both the Manor and the Observatory. Lord Sheffield's ancestors were the granted a Royal Charter over 200 years ago that gave them ownership of the entire township. The condition was that they must build and maintain the observatory. Admission is free to the public during daylight hours. The music you hear is being played by a Scottish Piper who is standing outside manor house. The Lady Maria engages a piper each year to play music of the season.
The Highlands
While the piper's music fills the air we can see Lord Sheffield's son returning from his morning ride. The family stables are visible right behind the manor house. Margaret Sheffield, who arrived with us on the Britannia told me that this would e the first Christmas that the entire family would be together since she and her brother started attending university. Further up the road we can see a couple returning from a visit to the observatory. A new telescope has been installed in the dome and visitors should be able to see the craters on the moon and maybe even the rings on Saturn.
Tide Water Business
While Brighton is home to many fine shops the street markets are the heart of the village. If you can't get customers inside, just meet them on the street. Here we can see the proprietor of the Grapes Inn has taken a brazier out to the street and is selling his fine Fish and Chips to those who just pass by. To save costs Mr. Tipler's son is meeting the Custom Agent out in front to inspect his newly arrived wines. Meanwhile old Harold is sitting on some crates happy he does not have to lug the wares into storage and can save his back.
Town Park
Back down on Tide Water Street and just across from Fagins is a little village park. Here the children have built a snowman that hopefully won't melt until after Christmas.
The Open Market
Just past the park and at the junction of Tide Water and High Streets is the open market. During the Holidays some of the villagers set up small stalls to sell their wares. I see Mr. Forest is selling his famous Christmas Holly while Mrs. Mitchell has her homemade Plum Pudding for sale. I wonder what goodies Mr. Harrison has purchased? Better watch out for the Johnsons in their horse drawn sulky. They must be return from the Matins service at Saint Martin's church, they attend the service every morning riding in from the nearby hamlet of Drang's Ferry.
The Old Curiosity Shop
Right behind the open markets is the Old Curiosity Shop. Little Nell (on the right) is trying to sell some flowers to a customer while her grandfather, who owns the shop ,sweeps away some of the new fallen snow. If you want to purchase one of those new fangled high wheel bikes it appears this is the place to get one.
Camden Priory
That caroling you hear is coming from the good monks at Camden Priory. They are part of the Franciscan Order and are quite devoted to caring for the local animals. Behind the stone gateway the monks have built a beautiful garden that shelters local birds and they have a preserve for wildlife just up the street.
Quiet Garden
The best way to see the entire garden at the monastery is to be in the bell tower. From up here you can see the curved bridge and the little fish pond as well as the carefully set flagstone walkway that passes through gardens of flowers, gazing ball and finally leads to the Preserve when you pass through the iron gate.
The Preserve
As we continue on up High Street we pass the Preserve. This is home to deer, rabbits, squirrels, the occasional fox and one wise old owl. Sister Agnes, who is just visiting, can be seen feeding some of the birds.
The Village Hack
As we begin our climb up High Street toward Saint Martins Church we will have to watch out for the many village hacks (cabs) that transport folks about the village. Here comes one heading for the dock area.
Leacock Poultry Shop
George Leacock manages the village poultry shop and has plenty of Christmas goose and turkey for sale. You can see him standing on his patio that faces High Street trying to interest people in the passing hacks in a goose for Christmas dinner.
Village Bakery
Next to the poultry shop is Biffin's Bakery. Even from High Street I can smell the freshly baked bread he is trying to sell to those who pass by. If you look at the swing on his patio is faithful dog Sparky is curled up for a morning nap.
The Melancoly Tavern
While visiting ships crews and travelers usually eat the the Grapes or the Blue Marlin down on Tide Water Street most of the locals usually drop in to the Melancoly Tavern. Their Shepard's Pie and Bangers and Mash is the talk of the town, Then, of course, these is always a warm fire and good friends to sit and share a pint with on a cold winter's evening. If you look, you can see one of the hardest working men in town Harold Johnson. Harold is the village lamplighter who nightly has to carry his ladder to the 86 lanterns scattered about the village to light up the night.
The Glass Maker
Samuel Burton is the village glazier. He crowning achievement has been the windows in Saint Martin's Church but he also makes the glass for Wellbourne's lamps that is just up the street. Samuel is exchanging Christmas gifts with Polly Prettywell the village lace maker.
The Omnibus
New to the village is J.D. Nichols Transport. J.D. 's bus runs continuously from the Timbers Hotel to the docks and has become a popular means of getting about town. Here we see the bus passing Fountain Square. Fountain Square is home to the village clock maker, the Lock Shop and Wellbourn's Lamps.
Heading up High Street toward Saint Martin's.
Fountain Square
Here in Fountain Square we see Wellbourn's Lamp shop on the far right. The owner, Jacob is outside trying to see some of his household lamps to a couple of shoppers who are strolling by. Other folks are sitting on benches waiting for the Omnibus to arrive to carry them to either the Timbers Hotel or perhaps the train station. With all the tourists in town the village constables will have plenty to do with crowd management.
St. Martin's Square Wine Shope and Coffee House
Right after passing the clock shop we arrive at St. Martin's Square. While the crowning feature is, of course, the great church there are several shops located there as well. The old coffee house, built in 1839, serves the finest of coffees that are imported from the former colonies. You may choose to be served indoors or you may get your java from the cart set up near the front door. Edgar Tipler, the owner of the Wine and Spirit shop has some customers sampling his gin, while he is showing another customer some of the new wines from France.
Antiquarian Bookseller
For those who like to read Brighton has an outstanding book shop. The latest books by the popular author Charles Dickens fill the shelves and a best sellers this time of year. Lord Sheffield stops by the shop everyday to pick up a copy of the Times brought up from London on the train. Today he has a bottle of champagne on ice at his table. He must be expecting someone to join him.
Saint Martin's Square
The most dramatic site in Brighton is St. Martins Church standing high on the rocky ridge. The great white stone church can be seen even from the decks of arriving vessels. In this view in the foreground we can see many of the rooftops off the building along Tide Water Street. Biffin's Bakery is visible on the far right and of course behind the church on the right is Fountain Square and the in the center are the Coffee House, Wine and Spirit shop and the Antiquarian Bookstore. Just visible on the far left at the top is the Brighton train station.
Saint Martin's Church
The beautiful front portal of Saint Martin's creates a view never to be forgotten. Built in 1716 the church has seen Brighton become a prosperous community.
Saint Martin's
During the Holiday Season the church give free loaves of bread (provided by Biffin's Bakery) to the residents of Brighton who are less fortunate than others. I can also see the choir director rehearsing their carols for the midnight service on Christmas Eve. Each year the entire village meets in the square for a community sing along. It is always quite a moving experience.
Trying to Catch the Train
It looks like Mrs. Jenkins spent too much time trying to select a time piece for her husband. Now she is counting one of Brighton's hacks to rush her to the train station in time to catch the train.
High Street Row Houses
At the end of High Street is the new row house. There are six apartments to help ease the demand for living space as the town rapidly expands. At least one of the residents has been having some fun in the snow and has constructed a snowman.
The Timbers
After passing the row houses and climbing just a few stairs we arrive at the Timbers Hotel. The old hotel is famous for its goosedown quilts on every bed. The hotel was constructed when the land for Saint Martin's church was being cleared. Some of the great timbers that form the rafters in the lobby are more than 30 inches wide and were cut from trees that were several centuries old. If you like the rustic feel, this is the place to visit. In front of the hotel is John Spencer's hack just waiting to transport someone around town. A couple of hotelguests are enjoying a pleasant pipe before they go inside for the night.
News of the Day
Now that the train is running a trip to London only takes 18 hours whereas when traveling by coach and four the trip took 52 hours. These means that the news of the day is only a day behind. The latest papers can be had at the village news stand. The village post man is making his rounds so that the outgoing mail can be placed on the last train leaving tonight.
The Emerald Express
The station master is setting the departure time for tonight's departure for London. The brightly painted red and green train should be quite a sight racing across the snow fields at a top speed of 35 miles per hour. Those of you who will be taking train better get on board. The rest of us can check into the hotel to be sure of getting one of the rooms with those warm goose down quilts. Then we can walk back to Saint Martin's Square to hear the Christmas carols.
This ends this year's visit to Brighton. Come back next year to see what has changed. Thanks for visiting.
